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舊 2011-04-07, 13:24   #16
eLeung
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作者: Mckay 查看文章
I don't have much knowledge about ski tuning but just like sharp edges. So i like new skis.
Skier and Mike gave me a lesson few weeks ago.
eLeung 目前離線   回覆時引用此篇文章
舊 2011-04-07, 15:26   #17
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作者: snowrider 查看文章
But I sharpen them almost after every ski days (because of the eastern icy cement dull the edge very quick) with diamond stone. I use file to sharpen around every 5 ski days or if the edges hit some rock. When I use file, I then also do base repairment and wax.
作者: skier 查看文章
Do you not use a preset tool so that the 1-degree base and 2-degree side bevel is correct and constant all the way through?
Use a diamond file if you have a nick on the edge (due to hitting some rocks), a diamond file will remove the hot spot. I always hot wax my skis irrespect of whether I am working on the edges or not. There is no over-waxing.

For "new hand" (like me) it is recommended to use a file guide, but I know and have seen experienced skiers tuning their skis "free-hand".
Mike 目前離線   回覆時引用此篇文章
舊 2011-04-08, 18:48   #18
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作者: snowrider 查看文章
But actually I don't think that you guys need to sharpen the ski very much in the West or at Whistler. You don't have much ice there, but I do have a lot ice here in the East.
Everytime you file the edges, you take a bit off the meat. So, don't get carry away too much.

After filing the edges for some time, you will find the sidewall of your skis in the way, you will then need a sidewall planer to shave a bit of the sidewall off to make room for your file.
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舊 2011-04-10, 08:16   #19
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作者: snowrider 查看文章
Yes I agree. I think that it's also about the time to sell the old skis and get a new pair.
Yes, but sometimes your old pair of skis can't be replaced because the manufacturer has stopped the production and the new models are not the same, eg. Volkl Racetiger cannot match and replace the old Supersports.

And, I do not think you can find a shop which can and will replace the edges of your skis for you nowadays.
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舊 2011-04-10, 10:14   #20
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作者: Mike 查看文章
Everytime you file the edges, you take a bit off the meat. So, don't get carry away too much.

After filing the edges for some time, you will find the sidewall of your skis in the way, you will then need a sidewall planer to shave a bit of the sidewall off to make room for your file.

I finally bought one few weeks ago and took off quite a bit of stuff from the sidewall
Mckay 目前離線   回覆時引用此篇文章
舊 2011-04-12, 09:51   #21
Mike
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For ultimate DIY ski tuning, one should consider buying a Wintersteiger Discman Ceramic Edge Finisher.

The Discman is a portable, hand held battery operated ceramic side edge tuning tool. The Ceramic sharpening disc gives you a very smooth edge finish that will stay sharper for longer. The Ceramic Disc is quick and efficient and does not take off much edge, prolonging the life of the ski. Make your sharpening between runs slightly less frantic! The Discman can be set to any edge angle between 85 and 90 degrees in ½ degree steps.
Mike 目前離線   回覆時引用此篇文章
舊 2011-04-12, 21:55   #22
Mike
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作者: snowrider 查看文章
Mike - This sounds like a good tool. However, after I did some quick research on the internet, I found that for the purpose of quick sharpening it's too expensive ($800) for me. Also, the following comments from epicski is very informative:
http://www.epicski.com/forum/thread/...an#post_761081
The Discman costs a lot less in the UK. I was given a demonstration couple of years ago, very impressive, it gives a very nice finish. But as the guy in Epic said, it takes practice to use the tool effectively. There are some plastic parts in the tool and together with the ceramic disc, they need to be replaced now and then.

For your info, all major ski shops in the UK will automatically finish the tuning with a ceramic finsih. Edges with a ceramic finish will last longer than one without.

To be honest, I am tempted.
Mike 目前離線   回覆時引用此篇文章
舊 2011-04-14, 20:58   #23
Mike
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This is a cheaper alternative to the Wintersteiger Ceramic Discman


Mike 目前離線   回覆時引用此篇文章
舊 2011-04-15, 07:10   #24
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作者: snowrider 查看文章
It's still too big to carry. This can be used for tuning on a workbench. If you want to sharpen before each run (which I don't do that this often), a diamond stone is much more convenient than this big grinder.
Snowrider, this tool is not meant for you to carry. You do not require to polish your ski edges with the ceramic stone after every run nor everyday, as a ceramic stone finish will make the sharpness of your edges last longer.

For taking to the slope, I have a handy small edge guide with a diamond stone for the job.
Mike 目前離線   回覆時引用此篇文章
舊 2011-04-17, 11:47   #25
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作者: Mike 查看文章
This is a cheaper alternative to the Wintersteiger Ceramic Discman


Having looking into this "Edge Tune Pro" more closely, I think the Wintersteiger Discman is far more superior. With the Dremel or Black & Decker tool, this tool lacks the precision that Wintersteiger has for polishing the edge. That is why this Ege Tune Pro is only one fifth the cost of the Wintersteiger.
Mike 目前離線   回覆時引用此篇文章
舊 2011-05-13, 15:43   #26
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作者: Mike 查看文章
The Discman costs a lot less in the UK. I was given a demonstration couple of years ago, very impressive, it gives a very nice finish. But as the guy in Epic said, it takes practice to use the tool effectively. There are some plastic parts in the tool and together with the ceramic disc, they need to be replaced now and then.

For your info, all major ski shops in the UK will automatically finish the tuning with a ceramic finsih. Edges with a ceramic finish will last longer than one without.

To be honest, I am tempted.
As I said I was tempted, here is a photo of the Discman (my new toy):
上傳的圖像
檔案類型: jpg Wintersteiger Discman.JPG (345.4 KB, 49 次查看)
Mike 目前離線   回覆時引用此篇文章
舊 2011-05-18, 16:28   #27
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作者: snowrider 查看文章
Yes, I do use bevelers. I have a 2-degree (88-degree) beveler for the side. We don't need to file the base very often, so I borrow my mentor's beveler for the base once a season.
Snowrider, you are absolutely right.
After the initial tune, one should not further touch the base edge.

When setting initial base bevel use the finsest file you can find and then polish with a gummi or even better - an arkansas. Not diamond files. All further tuning and all maintainace is done on the side edge only until the next stone-grind!
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舊 2011-05-30, 17:27   #28
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Normally, one use standard hydrocarbon wax for standard base tuning method. However, for racing, specialist fluorocarbon waxes and overlays can be ‘rubbed’ on over the hydrocarbon ‘base coat’ and then ironed in/scraped in the conventional way.

Some fluoro waxes & overlays are designed to be ‘corked’ in. After rubbing the wax over the base making slightly over-lapping passes from the tip to tail, begin blending the wax into the base by rubbing it with the cork block using moderate pressure from tip to tail. The heat generated by the friction of the cork will warm the base and melt the wax, which will start to disappear into the base. Continued strokes with the cork will ensure that the wax is absorbed into the base. These specialist waxes & overlays then need plenty of polishing with the horsehair and nylon brushes and then fiberlene to bring out a real high speed shine on the base.

Many racers believe in ‘wet polishing’. After horsehair brushing they spray a fine mist of clean water on the base and then use short, over-lapping tip to tail strokes with a medium to long bristled nylon brush. The result of this process is a finely polished surface. It also decreases the static generating effects caused by friction against polyethylene bases.

Note: Flouro waxes need to be regularly cleaned from the base by hot scraping as the flouro tends to dry out the base.
Mike 目前離線   回覆時引用此篇文章
舊 2011-06-05, 13:44   #29
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Someone asked whether lubricants should be used when tuning ski edges? Lubricants range from water to honing oils, etc.

Some people said No
Reason - While it is true that lubricants help the cutting action of stones or files, the problem is when you are tuning edges you are constantly producing "waste" in the forms of metal and dust. Lubricants will promote driving the waste/filings into the base pores, whereas if the stones or files are used dry, the dust/filings can simply be wiped off.

此篇文章於 2011-06-15 09:19 被 Mike 編輯。.
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舊 2011-06-13, 19:32   #30
Mike
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In posting #39, I mentioned specialist fluorocarbon waxes. Holmenkollen waxes is the market leader in this field.

In Asia, Gallium wax of Japan is well known and the performance of their waxes is highly praised internationally. The fact is Gallium's fluor wax composition is somewhat different from other makes. The unique thing about their products - Doctor FCG Maxfluor, Gigaspeed, and Gigaspeed Maxfluor Moist, is that they contain gallium and fluoro carbons, which make the wax extreme durable and provides excellent glide in humid to wet snow conditions down to minus six or seven degrees Celsius if the humidity is over 70 percent. Also they are extremely easy to work with because it is applied to the bases after all the waxing and manual rilling is done. You can wax a pair of skis in 30 seconds.
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